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Floor Model Light Box
If you’ve built the Basic Light Box and expanded it to the Taller version, you have the hang of it. For the largest version we’ll be cover expanding without the need to glue your PVC joints, various diffusing methods, and ways to photograph highly reflective subjects.
Light sources, color, intensity and diffusion, all play a significant role. We’ll explore some of the less expensive options.
Click here for Materials List, Dimensions, and Instructions
5.5′ high, 3′ wide, and 2′ deep, plus room to grow!
Increasing height, width, and depth, is a piece of cake. Within reason, 3/4″ PVC vertical posts, or stiles, can be safely extended. Considering the weight of this particular light box, just under 20 pounds (PVC total weight), it safely supports lights, linen, shelves, several 3′ wide paper rolls, and with plenty of space.
The top front PVC cross member should be firmly in place, if supporting any weight above the top rails (like lighting, as in the LED TV Upcycling Project). Having your sheet snugly clamped will help to keep your rails and fittings nice and tight.
At this point, having something to use as a shelf becomes extremely helpful for our newly expanded light box studio. While you can use anything strong enough to act as a platform for your objects, there are a few materials that make a very good choice. Thin plywood and cardboard may be used. However, one of the best investments:
Acrylic sheet, 1/4″ thick, is a great choice, as it’s light, and it allows light to pass through it. Adding paper as a light filter can be helpful for making an object appear to glow!
We encourage the do-it-yourself approach. For those of you where it would be more practical, we’ll stock some modified 3/4″ connectors. There are many videos on the web demonstrating how to make a light box from cardboard, far fewer tutorials exist for PVC. I do think cardboard is a wonderful idea, as the ‘maker’ in me loves repurposing things that would normally be sent to a landfill. My very first light box was actually made from a cardboard box. It worked pretty well, but it was definitely not viable as a long term solution.
All of the materials are easily sourced on Amazon and some of the materials are even available at your local home improvement stores.
Wrapping the exterior with fabric and using ABS clamps to secure it serves two purposes. The linen acts as a fantastic diffuser with light coming from the sides and it’s also a great reflector for an overhead light source.
The interior may also be lined with a linen sheet, concealing the PVC, but that would only be practical if the horizontal rails aren’t needed to support a raised work surface. If you frequently photograph very large items, building a separate custom backdrop could make more sense. One of best reasons a PVC light box is the wisest choice is that expanding this particular model to 6′ in width and 6′ in height would cost under $30 in PVC, so it’s not only a very simple and quick modification, it’s extremely economical.
Dimensions
Approximate dimensions are: Height – 5′ 6″, Width – 3′, Depth – 2′.
It’s better to make your pipe cuts a bit too large, than a bit too small, if you plan on adding accessories, such as 36″ paper rolls. You can always trim your pipes later. A twin sheet is the perfect size for this light box.
Using a miter box and saw will produce much straighter cuts and also makes it possible for you to make your own custom fittings.
Materials
- The Basic Box (Example of our Basic Light Box) – DIY Cost: Around $50
- Extra bits as seen in Basic Lift Kit – DIY Cost: Under $30
- Extra bits as seen in Floor Model Lift Kit – DIY Cost: Under $40
- White twin flat sheet for diffuser – $6
- 36″ by 100′ roll of white paper – $32 (Optional)
- 30″ by 20″ sheet of poster board – $.50 (Dollar Tree!)
- Acrylic sheet 30″x40″x1/4″ – OPTIONAL – Plan on $100, or more
- Laminated board from Home Depot (Optional) – ten bucks
- Light source – converted LED TV – FREE! Many inexpensive lighting options may be found with a bit of searching. Check our video links for free tutorials
Directions
- Cut 3/4″ PVC to length:
- 8 pieces at 37 5/8″
- 12 pieces at 24 1/2″
- 4 pieces at 22 15/16″
- 4 pieces at 12″
- Modify six 3/4″ PVC 4 way corner fittings, as shown on our products pages. Three 4 Way Connector Saddle – RIGHT and three 4 Way Connector Saddle – LEFT. The saddles should be cut approximately 1/16″ above center, to allow for the rails to be able to ‘snap’ into place.
- Assemble – connect two 4 way corner connectors to the ends of one 37 5/8″ piece (this will be the back) and two modified 4 way corners to another 37 5/8″ pipe (this is the front).
- Connect the front and back rails by adding one 24 1/2″ PVC pipe to each side, inserted into the 4 way fittings.
- You should have your bottom level completed.
- Repeat the steps above, for creating your lower-middle tier.
- Repeat the steps above, for creating your upper-middle tier.
- For the top rails, use the four 3 way corner connectors, adding the above-mentioned pipe measurements.
- Connect the bottom level to lower-middle level with four 24 1/2″ pipes
- Connect the lower-middle level to the upper-middle level with the four 12″ pipes, leaving the four 22 15/16″ pipes as vertical risers for attaching the middle level to the upper level of the box.
- Cover with the sheet, as shown above and use the ABS Snap Clamps to secure it. It should be a tight stretch.
- There is no need to use glue for this build. The stretched flat sheet keeps everything in place!